In the southern half of the Nagano Prefecture lies its capital and largest city, Nagano City. While the city is surrounded by mountains on all sides, it is easily accessible through Japan’s train system and it is only an hour and a half away from Tokyo via shinkansen. Nagano City, while one of the first modern towns in Nagano prefecture (formerly known as the Shinano Provence) after the Meiji restoration, is steeped in history. Originally developed as a temple town, within the city also lies the Kawanakajima Battleground and it was the host of the 1998 Winter Olympics. However, the most famous destination in Nagano City is Zenko-ji. Built in the 7th century, this Buddhist temple is an important part of Japan’s cultural heritage.
Zenko-ji is located about 2 kilometers away from Nagano Station. Whether taking the 15 minute bus ride or the 30 minute walk, it is definitely a landmark you will want to visit during your time in Nagano. The temple was built during a contentious period in Japanese history: during the 6th and 7th centuries, after Buddhism was introduced to the country via Korean and Chinese influence, the country debated whether or not the practice of Buddhism was beneficial to the Japanese people. While Buddhism was practiced by some of the aristocracy, others considered the new religion as the cause of disorder in the kingdom. This debate brings us the legendary origin of Zenko-ji. It is said that one of the first images of the Buddha was thrown into a river in Osaka where a Shinano samurai, Yoshimitsu Honda, rescued it and brought it back to the Shinano area. According to the official website, Zenko-ji was built in 642 AD to house this important Buddha image. While the original image has been sealed away for centuries, you can still get a glimpse of the official replica which is brought out every 7 years during an event called “Gokaicho.” While the original Buddha statue remains hidden from public view, the temple still receives crowds of visitors every day from all over Japan.
There are many events at Zenko-ji you can experience. Every morning there is a morning service, called “O-Asaji,” that you can witness. Beginning at sunrise, visitors can receive blessings from the top priest. You can also purchase a ticket to witness the morning service inside the temple. There are various festivals and special events throughout the year. Recently, there was a fantastic winter illumination event at the temple in which lights and projections decorated the main hall and surrounding buildings. The Omotesando (the pilgrim’s path leading up to the temple) is also illuminated, which usually starts in early November and lasts until mid-February. On the Omotesando, there are many shops where you can buy omiyage and Nagano-famous foods like soba noodles and oyaki. The Nagano Prefectural Art Museum is next to the temple, too. The area around Zenko-ji has many cafes, izakayas, and shops, so if it’s your first time in the area there will be plenty of things for you to do.
Arguably, the most popular time to visit Zenko-ji is during New Year’s celebrations. The New Year festivities begin on December 31st. The New Year holiday is traditionally a family celebration in Japan where young people and families travel to visit their family homes to ring in the new year with their loved ones. However, in my experience, Nagano City and the area around Zenko-ji were filled with younger, 20-something people out with friends this New Years holiday. Many restaurants and bars are closed during the winter holidays, but there are still a few places open between Nagano Station and the temple where you can enjoy some food and drinks with friends. The street leading up to the temple was bustling this year with most of the shops and restaurants open late and a lot of stalls selling different street foods. My friends and I enjoyed grilled beef skewers, takoyaki, and miso soft serve ice cream while we wandered the area around midnight. If you decide to visit Zenko-ji during the next New Year’s holiday, be warned: the line to enter the temple is very long after midnight and the following days. However, despite the crowd, the atmosphere around the temple is buzzing with excitement and it is definitely worth a visit on New Years to experience one of the most important holidays in Japan.
Overall, Zenko-ji is one of the best cultural landmarks to visit in the Nagano Prefecture. The history of the temple is an important cornerstone in Japan’s Buddhist history and continues to be of cultural importance to this day. Everyone who comes to Nagano should visit Zenko-ji at least once during their time here. I hope you can enjoy Zenko-ji as much as I have during my time in Nagano!
Nagano JETs 
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